EBC Diary — You’re not alone even if you’re traveling solo

Shivam Raj
5 min readOct 13, 2023

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This story is about the siblings Sourish and Nandini that I met during EBC. Let’s start from where it started or when I met them.

I landed in Nepal with lot of doubts. Whether I will be able to do this. I was the only one in the group who had 0 trekking experience. People who were there either had done 60–70 treks or some trekking company owner. For some, this was the retirement trek(last) or celebrating their retirement. I was sitting with them on first day listening to all their experiences, realising that I haven’t brought most of the essential things to do this. I was also the youngest in our group by far margins. I met Rema, who helped me buying all the essential things I needed.

We woke up at 4 am to take the plain to Lukla. We all started feeling the goosebumps. We were greeted by the sherpas and porters at Lukla airport. I made a friend by that time, Aanand. We shared all our food expense together. We trekked some distance that day and we reached Phakding.

This is where I met them. They were from Kolkata. Sourish is a personal trainer who has trained many actors and trail runner. And he had multiple clients who he trains online as now. In Phakding, his network stopped working but he had to send an important routine to this clients. Luckily i had network and he used my phone to send the routine. It was a small interaction and we went to our rooms later to sleep as we had a long hike tomorrow to Namche Bazaar. We all got ready and started hiking. I started with Sourish where I met Nandini. Our guide told us that this is not a race and everyone should walk at their own pace. After some time, Sourish moved forward and I and Nandini started walking together. When you meet someone new, you start talking about their life. I got to know that she was an Architect in Indian Navy whose focus was to build ships for them. She has done many remarkable trek and this was her retirement trek (but it wasn’t).

For the next few days, we walked together and she taught me a lot of things about mountaineering, life, etc. What happens above 5000 metres, hyperthermia, hypothermia. Even small things like how to utilize body heat and when is the right time to wear a jacket and when should we open it. She along with Rema, Anand, Sourish was the teacher cum motivator I needed to complete EBC. There were times that I didn’t feel that I can walk more and she waited and sat with me to get my enegy level back even though she was also tired and wanted to completed as early as possible. I wasn’t expecting all this from someone who I just met 6–7 days ago. After 4000 metres, oxygen level started decreasing and everyone started getting sick except the people who were taking precautions. Cetrizine was the game changer which I brought with me(was rather used as hajmola at night). We completed Everest base camp and it was one of best feelings ever. I don’t know if I am going to do something like this again. But when I do, I would like people like Nandini to be there in the same group.

Sourish and my bonding started later than Nandini and mine. Maybe because he is also trail runner and I can’t keep up with him. But I remember Cafe 4410 in Deboche where we sat together with Rajul and Nandini and played Uno and drank Hot chocolate. It was not the best hot chocolate. But considering where we were, it felt amazing. Sourish and my bonding started after the day we did EBC. At first, I thought he was a cool guy with some attitude. For some context, people who go for EBC are also given a chance to summit Kala Patthar (5608 meters). But most people don’t do it because their motivation fades away after doing EBC and it isthe most tough part of the trek. 70% elevation with 17% oxygen at the top. Out of 17, Rajul, Sourish and I were the only people who went for Kala Patthar. being honest, I was the weak link among the three. At the start, I was just waiting for any of them to turn back and i will go. But after one hour of trekking, we could see the summit. it took us one and half hour more to reach there. This time, Sourish didn’t go forward as he always did. he stayed with us throughout the hike. We made lots of videos. Kala patthar is said to have the second most beautiful sunset in the world and we all wanted to reach that place to at least see the sunrise. We reached in approximately 2.5 hours. People who were coming back were congratulating us. We were already in the feel. And then we reached and enjoyed the feeling that we were having at that time.

Sourish and I smoke (not much). But at that time, we wanted to light a cigarette because we were just crazy(17% oxygen). But we wanted to do it. He had a cigarette, But the lighter stopped working at that level. Even the guides lighter wasn’t working because of the cold and less oxygen. I checked my bag and found and a matchbox without any matches. We asked people who were coming but apparently not many hikers smoke :( . We can’t stay there for much time because of the temperature.

We lost our hope of lighting a cigarette until one guy came. We asked him from far and he said that he only has matches and not matchbox. We felt that he was sent by god. We lit one cigarette and enjoyed the time together. he gave me the electrolyte gel that he drinks when he hikes. And that is how I bonded with Sourish.

While going back, my bond with them kept increasing and we had lots of fun in Kathmandu on our last day. The next day, everyone went there own way.

I had my Visa interview for Maters in 10 days which was in Kolkata. I told them about this and they were very happy to meet once again. I met Sourish first as Nandini was busy. He invited me to his home and mad me eat lots of Kolkata style homemade Chicken Biryani. I also had my Europe trip in 20 days, so I had to buy some clothes. He took me to a mall and gave a lot of opinions on what to buy. I really liked it as someone who you just met 15 days ago is spending his crucial hours( he postponed his client) for you. We ate at KFC and then went our ways.

That night, Nandini called and said that you can’t just meet one sibling and go. But she was a little busy with work and life that instead of meeting somewhere, she asked me to stay at her home for next two days. This was one day before my visa interview, She took my mock interview with a glass of red wine. I was a little nervous about the interview that we didn’t talk about many things. The next day, my visa got approved and we celebrated that. We relieved our EBC days and talked about a lot of things.

Some people, who you meet only for few days makes a big impact on your life. I still talk to both of them. I still hope that we will meet again someday. Till then…

I have not proof read this.

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Shivam Raj
Shivam Raj

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